We went to Europe. It was great. The end.
For days, I've struggled to figure out how to write a compelling blog post that is representative yet brief. Chronologically? Topically? How do you write it so it doesn't sound like an alcoholic third grader's report of "What I did on my summer vacation"? Not sure. Anyhow, here are highlights from the first leg of our trip - our five-day Beercycling (©? ®? ™? I didn't take that class in law school) tour of the Flanders region of Belgium. The photos appear below.
Day 1: After spending Day-1 (Day 0?) in transit to Brugge, we got our bikes for the week and went straightaway on a test ride to... a brewery. Then, we went for a short ride and had a picnic. Then we went to a brewery. Afterwards, I walked around while many people napped away their jetlag. We then went to a bar for a beer, and then went out to eat, and had some beer. (I split an order of rabbit and an order of mussels with one of our tour guides from Germany - - the rabbit was shockingly good.) This gives you a good sense of the week to come! In total, I think we rode fewer than 10 miles.
Day 2: We rode along canals to the North Sea, stopped for a snack, rode some more, had a beer, rode to picnic site, rode to a brewery where we had some beer and went on a tour. We then rode to Diksmuide, where we stayed at a nice B&B that, after dinner, served as a nice spot for us to share beers that all the tour participants brought from the US, Canada, and Germany. This was our longest day of riding - I think it was close to 45 miles. Was this the day where we also came across a beer vending machine - complete with corresponding glassware?
Day 3: We stopped at the Yser Tower war monument and rode to Watou. On the way, we stopped at the site that was the impetus for choosing this specific tour: the Abbey St. Sixtus, home of Westveterlen 12 (cue the angelic choir). We had a great lunch (and beer, of course, as well as beer ice cream) at the Abbey Cafe, bought some beer to bring home, visited a hop farm, had some beer at our B&B in Watou, went next door to the St. Bernardus brewery and went on a tour and had some beer, met some nice people from France who Dan and I impromptually (not a word) exchanged gifts with, rode to town for a fixed-price 3-course meal paired with beer. After dinner, a few of us decided to ride to France. Why not? It was close. And dark. My impression of the rural French after spending a total of 5 minutes in their country? They have dogs that like to bark. Afterwards, we were at the bar at the B&B and I totally, decisively, hit my limit on my daily intake of all indulgences (beer, ice cream, chocolate, bread, cheese) and went to bed.
Day 4: We rode to De Struise brewery on the way to Ieper, went on a tour, and had some beer. Before dinner, Dan and I snuck away and got some coffee, but then saw some fellow tourmates and joined them for a beer, had an early dinner (and beer) at the hotel (super great vegetarian options!), and then went to the Last Post Ceremony to honor those who died in WWI. Ieper was destroyed in WWI and completely rebuilt 100 years ago. It's pretty amazing to see old photos/drawings of the destruction and compare it to what's there now. We then, of course, went and had some beer before calling it a night. (We visited another hop farm either on Day 4 or Day 5, I can't remember.)
Day 5: We rode through many old farms for the third day in a row (it was fun to pick out the crops) and took a rails-to-trails route to Roeselare. On the way, we stopped at a WWI cemetery and later had a picnic and drank up the rest of the beer that the tour participants brought to share. We ended the tour at Rodenbach brewery, and went on a tour and, well, had some beer!
I think if you do not like beer, you should not go on a Beercycling trip. I appreciated the wide variety of Belgian beers we sampled - - there was something for everyone (unless you don't like beer!) It was a ton of fun and I'd like to do another tour of theirs - perhaps one that is a little more bikey? I need to compare the future dates with my planned #BikeMS rides, though, to see what the options are...
Photos!
Day 0:
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Requisite photo of the tower in Brugge the night before the tour. We could see the tower from our hotel room. |
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This is my favorite little bar in Brugge. We went there shortly after arriving, remembering it from 2 years ago... |
Day 1:
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First brewery, Day 1. We went right after breakfast and did our introductions there. |
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This was where we had our picnic. I took the photo because our dog loves to do this to me, to get a butt scratch. Somehow, I doubt that is what's going on here. |
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Little brewery. The guy in the light blue shirt owns and operates it, with the assistance of his family. They only bottle when his kid has a break from his high school activities. It was pretty high tech for a little place. |
Day 2:
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Nice day! |
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My bike for the week. I went and put my hands in the North Sea. |
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Vending machine, with beer. Range of suitable glasses are on the shelves. Glasses and bottles (required to be reused) go in the bin. |
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The dude with the suit jacket and red shoes owns De Dolle and is the brewer. He hates giving tours (maybe because of his uniform?). The brewery is old and uses open fermentation techniques. Hugely different than Fort Lapin. |
Day 3:
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These two photos are of peace monuments built after WWI, blown up in WWII, and a place where neo-Nazis used to like to gather. |
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I should have included people for scale. |
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The grotto outside St. Sixtus, home of Westveterlen 12 (and other Westveterlen beers) |
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Fenced-off walkway to the super secretive abbey |
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I got special permission to take this photo of Dan. Westveterlen 12 in liquid form, Westveterlen 8 in the ice cream. So. Good. So good. Yum. |
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Our cool B&B next to St. Bernardus. That screen door went to our room. |
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I can't resist things like this. |
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Self-explanatory |
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Hop field from the rooftop of St. Bernardus. I took videos of the hop stripping process, but am not sharing them here. Let me know if you want to see them! |
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We rode to this place for our 3-course pairing dinner. The couple who owns it are super nice. And the guy was apologetic about serving me ham pate instead of the vegetarian food I requested. It was okay! |
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Our proof of arriving in France. |
Day 4:
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De Struise brewery in an old elementary school. Great explanation of the brewing process on the chalkboard that the dude walked us through for a long time, as we drank beer. The woman in black is doing her first #BikeMS ride next week in CA. We had a nice chat! |
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They had a pretty state-of-the art brewery. They also roast coffee. I took this photo of the many taps. I wasn't as fond of their beer, but I really liked them. |
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The Menen Gate, before the Last Post. The walls are lined with the names of people from all different countries who died in WWI but for whom there are no graves. |
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Another angle |
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It was pretty crazy to see something like this constructed post WWI after the entire town was demolished. |
Day 5:
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This cemetery had graves for people who had been identified, but (unlike the Menen Gate) had graves for a ton of people killed in WWI who were unidentified. |
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Cool building where they used to toast the malt for Rodenbach. |
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Rodenbach. I need to work on my pronunciation. |
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See above. None of the other breweries we visited aged their beer in this fashion. This brewery served us coffee before our tour and before our beer! |